Il selciato del Gigante

L’essenza dell’Irlanda si coglie al Nord. La natura prorompente e selvaggia non si cura di un confine, creato dall’uomo, che ha portato sanguinose lotte in un angolo di paradiso. Il dilemma degli Irlandesi è stato, infatti, quello di decidere se rimanere uniti alla madrepatria, la Gran Bretagna o rendersi autonomi. “Unionisti” o “Nazionalisti”? E così, dal 1922 l’Irlanda del Nord che comprende 6 contee, fa parte del Regno Unito e la restante isola, che comprende 26 contee, è la Repubblica d’Irlanda. Quest’ultima dal 1973 è tra i paesi che costituiscono l’Unione Europea. Questo è l’attuale assetto raggiunto dopo lunghe e faticose vicissitudini. Non si tratta comunque di una netta separazione tra due schieramenti. La città di Belfast è stata ripetutamente sull’orlo della guerra civile, conflitti e atti terroristici si sono protratti fino ai giorni nostri (anni 70/80) come ci ricorda una canzone, molto bella del famoso gruppo irlandese degli U2: Sunday bloody Sunday.

La contea di Donegal è la più settentrionale della Repubblica d’Irlanda. Qui di solito si arriva; la cittadina di Letterkenny ha il suo piccolo aereoporto. Poi si entra nell’Irlanda del Nord. Cambia tutto dal punto di vista politico amministrativo, religioso, sociale, ma dal punto di vista naturalistico c’è la continuità di incantevoli, infiniti paesaggi mozzafiato. Da una parte la repubblica, i cattolici, l’euro, dall’altra la monarchia, i protestanti, la sterlina, ma la bellezza non ha nessun confine, il cielo limpido è uguale in ogni parte, come se il vento riuscisse a spazzare via tutte le complicazioni degli uomini. Questa zona così antica e isolata, è un intreccio di mare e cielo, alte scogliere, insenature, coste frastagliate, verdi pascoli e lunghe, fragorose onde spumeggianti. “Una bellezza terribile” ebbe a scrivere, non a torto, lo scrittore e poeta irlandese William Butler Yeats, a cui fu assegnato nel 1923 il premio Nobel per la letteratura. Una bellezza che non può essere descritta, ma che suscita delle emozioni e resta indelebile nel cuore.

Tuffandosi nel paesaggio, si perde la cognizione del tempo; la forza primordiale della natura ci fa sentire piccoli e inerti. A parte la zona costiera che riserva altri colori, la campagna è un verde spettacolo punteggiato da numerosi batuffoli bianchi, pecore paffutelle,che a confronto fanno sembrare spelacchiate tutte le altre. Bassissima densità di popolazione. Sporadiche case bianche, piccole aziende agricole con vendita diretta delle proprie produzioni e numerosi allevamenti di pecore. Appartengono alle razze merino, cheviot, leichester, e rappresentano la materia prima per la tipica produzione artigianale del tweed del Donegal. Si tratta di stoffe spesso a quadrettoni che richiamano i colori brillanti e quasi le sensazioni che si provano in una giornata di sole trascorsa qui. Non è poi così difficile vedere il sole da queste parti! Il cielo è spesso mutevole. Si colora di grigio facendo apparire ogni cosa come in bianco e nero ma presto e all’improvviso, come per magia, spariscono le nuvole, sparisce la pioggia nebulizzata e ricominciano a brillare i colori intensi alla luce del sole.

Le scogliere nella Contea di Antrim, nell’Irlanda del Nord, riservano uno spettacolo unico al mondo. Questa zona è stata infatti, nel 1986, dichiarata patrimonio dell’umanità dall’UNESCO e stavolta l’uomo non ha fatto proprio nulla se non restare stupito innanzi all’apice della fantasia della natura, contare circa 40.000 colonnine basaltiche e inventare fantasiose storie sulla loro origine. Si tratta di una straordinaria formazione geologica caratterizzata dalla presenza di un agglomerato di rocce per lo più a pianta esagonale che si estende per circa 300 metri lungo la costa e continua nel fondale marino per altri 150 metri. L’altezza delle colonne varia; le più alte raggiungono i dodici metri ma alcune sono collocate direttamente sulla scogliera raggiungendo in totale i 28 metri di altezza. Sono pilastrini addossati l’uno all’altro, così perfetti che sembrano scolpiti a mano da pazienti artigiani o forse opera di alieni. Secondo una delle più acclarate leggende, pare che questo luogo sia quel che resta di un percorso, una strada, costruita dal gigante Fionn mac Cumhail, per raggiungere la sua amata in Scozia. Da qui l’origine del nome: Giant’s Causeway ovvero il Selciato del Gigante. Di questo gigante se ne intravedono, tra le rocce, gli occhi, o lo stivale perduto; altre particolari formazioni fanno immaginare l’Arpa del gigante, la Gobba del Cammello. Qui la natura si è sbizzarrita!

La scoperta di questo posto e le prime notizie della sua esistenza su documenti scritti, risalgono al 1693 ad opera di un membro del Trinity College di Dublino, Sir Bulkeley, quando non se ne conosceva ancora l’origine e venivano vagliate numerose ipotesi. Nel 1771 uno studioso francese, Demarest, ne attribuì la formazione ad una grande eruzione vulcanica avvenuta 60 milioni di anni fa nella Contea di Antrim con fuoriuscita di basalto fuso che a contatto con l’acqua e l’atmosfera, raffreddandosi rapidamente diede origine alla formazione delle colonnine basaltiche.

Dal 1987 è stata istituita una riserva naturale anche a seguito della presenza di numerose specie di uccelli marini che vi transitano e nidificano e per la presenza di piante rare.

A circa un km di distanza, in mezzo ad una profusione di scorci incantevoli si arriva al Ponte di corda. E di corda lo è realmente! Collega la terraferma ad un’isoletta, Carrick Island, ondeggiando a 30 metri di altezza su strapiombi che tolgono il respiro. Attraversarlo è come stare in apnea. Era in passato utilizzato dai pescatori di salmone. Oggi viene attraversato solo da turisti che vanno ad ascoltare la voce del vento e dell’Oceano Atlantico guardando la Scozia all’orizzonte. La mente si perde per lunghi attimi nell’immensità del creato.

 

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